PARIS – Chanel hosted guests, including Venus Williams, on a trip Tuesday to the Grand Palais Ephemeris, to the landscapes and colors of the Scottish countryside. On the last day of Paris Fashion Week, a tweed ode appeared on the runway – a study of the history and attractiveness of the fabric, which is now synonymous with the Parisian faithful.
Brilliant styles evoked the colors of the real Tweed River, which flows east through the border region of Scotland and northern England, the river that gave name to this legendary fabric and inspired the house’s founder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.
Here are the highlights of Tuesday’s Fall-Winter 2022 show:
Chanel’s journey to the borders
“We followed in the footsteps of Gabrielle Chanel along the Tweed River to imagine tweed in the colors of this landscape,” Ward said from the collection. Thus, the designer, who replaced Karl Lagerfeld after his death in 2019, continued his creative path through the life and inspiration of the founder of the house. In previous seasons, this included a collection dedicated to the orphanage where Chanel grew up.
On Tuesday, it was a section that traces the last years of fashion icons when she lived and stayed in Scotland and “collected ferns and bouquets of flowers to inspire local craftsmen to the tones she wanted”.
The branded suits of the house skirt and wrapped woolen styles were in muted pink, burgundy, blue and purple tones. They were spotty, like shades in nature, thanks to the unique interweaving of textured and irregular weft fabric. Guests sat in seats with tweed upholstery, squeezing invitations from the appropriate pink material.
The show was also a history lesson: Chanel lived in Scotland when she was the Duchess of Westminster’s mistress in the 1920s, and she wore his jackets. Cut to the elements of men’s clothing – flat boxing jackets with loose proportions and large retro pockets.
But for all its narrative, this sales collection sometimes lacked liveliness. Somehow it did not seem daring in silhouette, which did not give peace. He also seemed to lack the mocking attitude that had been a mainstay for many years under Lagerfeld – despite occasional heydays such as chains or black panties with a shiny logo. Maybe Lagerfeld set the bar too high, or maybe Ward just doesn’t want to rock the boat?
The origins of Tweed
Experts say the tweed made of fabric, Tartan’s less bright cousin, actually got its name by accident in the 19th century, when a London merchant misread the name “twill” wool (Scottish name “twill”, a textile weave) and confused it with the river Tweed in Scotland.
So the river did give the fabric its name – in 1826 in Hovik – but it was only by mistake.
The material comes from Scotland and Ireland, and – away from the runway of Upper Paris – was often worn by farmers.
Return Miu Miu micro mini
Miuchi Prada’s more quirky little sister – Miu Miu – has been in the typical mood of contrasts this season, enlivened by accessories to create a visual kinesis in a rare joint show.
Belts, long neck scarves of the 70s, socks, straps, badges and stripes – all in different colors – gave the style an unusual feel. At other unexpected moments a flying jacket, usually embroidered with tan leather, was in a python. And the elegant atmosphere – in patent leather shoes, woolen golfs – contrasts with the “adult” images, including a beautiful men’s gray coat.
But the star of the show was definitely the Miu Miu micro mini. It also appeared last season and has since become a viral hit everywhere on the red carpet. This abbreviated mini – with its sharply lowered waist – appeared in several Tuesday images with a shabby deconstructed hem. Sometimes it resembled a tennis skirt, other times it resembled a gladiator costume. But it was always fabulous.
This style crossed the body to the cropped tops at a sensible fashion moment typical of the Italian billionaire and fashion icon.
Children Riches Deprimes
From the Enfants Riches Deprimes – in French “Rich children in depression” – under the supervision of the founder and designer of the house of Henry Alexandre Levy came the air of the sluggish bourgeoisie.
The meaning of the brand, which is famous for its T-shirts and jackets for $ 1,000 to $ 95,000, is elitism and postmodern commentary on the nature of money itself.
So Tuesday was, by the standards of a designer who also caused controversy by selling a cashmere loop for $ 7,000, a handmade collection.
In the trend, V-shaped figures appear on a black dress with a white shirt, next to a minimalist long black coat without a lapel.
Striped loose silk pajamas, reminiscent of a rich kid who can’t bother to get a job in great style, and showed great humor along with fancy elbow-length rubber gloves that looked ready for sleep – or utensils.