How to prevent deer from your yard – Morning bell

Please think are you writing about deer and marmot remedies that really work to protect gardens? Please write about this soon? Perhaps you can ask readers for tips that work on them.

I use pie tins attached to short stakes on a thread, pieces Irish Spring deer soaps and commercial sprays and pet repellents sold at Herbein’s. Everything can help, but no one helps enough.

Also recently learned about hot peppers, which are now sprinkled directly on the ears when they form.

I hate spending on turning my large garden into an Apache fort with a high fence. But that may be the only solution. It seems that every year there are more deer in the yard. They rule at night. And marmots don’t seem to be scared of anything.

Thank you

“Randy Kraft.”

Randy, of course tried several solutions, but as he mentioned, the best and most reliable solution is the exception of using a high fence around the garden. Other options are available but not as effective.

Dog, one in a limited area with a physical or invisible fence. However, the dog and deer must be in the area at the same time. Dog care and feeding should be designed to make sure this is a practical solution for any garden. The dog should be large and preferably have more than one. Please remember that deer are not completely defenseless and can injure any obsessive dogs.

Motion detection devices which emit sounds or streams of water, provide some protection.

Fireworks: I also found links to fireworks, strobes, ultrasonic devices, monofilaments and more. They provide limited protection when deer become familiar with the subject and learn that nothing bad is happening.

Repellents: Repellents differ in method and effectiveness. Note that odor repellents stink, and although deer are more sensitive to odor, it can make this area unpleasant for human activity.

• Odor and taste repellents often include putrid whole hard eggs.
• Ammonia soaps with higher fatty acids are present in some products registered for use on edible crops. It is only effective for two to four weeks, depending on the weather, and may need to be re-applied after heavy rains.
• Gardeners are often mentioned as useful urine (predators and humans), mylarganite (a by-product of sewage treatment plants), rotten meat trimmings, bags of human hair. They can be effective but smelly. There have also been some questions concerning humanity collecting urine from predators
• Additional substances used as odor remedies: moth balls, lime sulfur, dash, crushed deodorant soap, creosote, nicotine, ammonia. Remember that some of these items may be successful in repelling deer, but are no longer considered safe or suitable for use in the garden. Therefore, before use, check the effectiveness and safety of any home remedy. Naphthalene may work but is not considered safe. Nicotine and ammonia are also harmful substances.

Taste: Although taste can be a deterrent, it is important to note that every offending deer must decide that the plant tastes bad. In areas with large numbers of deer plants can still be severely damaged. Also, hungry deer are not as picky when food sources are lean.

• Thiram is a fungicide that is most often used on dormant trees and shrubs. It also acts as a tasting repellent.
• Repellents based on spicy sauces contain capsaicin and are available for decorations and fruit trees. It is sprayed on a new growth before tying the fruit. On vegetables, as well as on fruit trees, apply only to development of edible parts of a plant.
• Dried animal blood: available as a powder concentrate or ready-made liquid and is acceptable for use in organic gardens. However, do not use plants / parts of plants for human consumption.
• Sprays containing hot peppers, garlic, rotten eggs, glue and castor oil are also sold as flavor repellents.

Deer-resistant plants: There are many lists of resistant plants, and they are less likely to eat, but, again, remember that hungry deer will eat almost everything.

Location: There is some protection in putting the most coveted deer food away from fields, woods or anywhere in your garden. Use less desirable plants, such as very aromatic, fuzzy, prickly or have milky sap along the edge of the garden.

Conclusion: With the exception of barrier restraints such as fencing, all other options should be changed. Familiarity with the means of restraint and their location will make deer bolder. Keep them in balance by changing the techniques or areas where you have deployed your items.

Next week we will look at effective rodent control tools.

I noticed in the garden a few calibers. It seems a little early, but they are always the desired species. This week we need to get good nectar plants to keep the birds. Although I know that most honeysuckle plants in the wild are invasive species and I do my best to keep them out of our yard, the aroma of a warm spring day is still delightful. Lately we have been treated to the sweet familiar aroma that came from the neighboring undeveloped area.

Sue Kittek is a freelance garden surveyor, writer and teacher. Send Garden Keeper questions to grdnkpr@gmail.com or by mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, PO Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.

Landing: Start sowing crops such as beans, radishes, lettuce and spinach consistently to create a longer harvest season. Expose the tomatoes when the weather warms to at least 50 ° F at night. Wait a few weeks before transplanting basil, eggplant or pepper. Start with baby breathing seeds, space, zinnia, salsific, eggplant, summer squash and winter squash. Direct sowing: beans, bush and bush beans, melons, melons, cucumbers, rhubarb, summer and winter squash. Continue to sew celeriac, celery, cabbage, carrots, cotton, a bunch of onions, onions, parsnips and chard. Plant or plant summer bulbs and tubers such as dahlias, canes, callas and collodions. Plant bare trees and shrubs. Make sure the soil is dry enough to work – Do not dig or plant in the mud. Buy annual plants for containers, annual beds and for filling bare places in perennial or shrub beds. Follow your schedule to run seeds. Check the packages for instructions, such as starting work indoors four weeks before the date of the last frost. Seasonal: start pinching chrysanthemums and asters to promote bush growth and more flowers. Continue to pinch off new tips at intervals of two weeks until early July. When the weather warms up, lighten the plants that have overwintered inside. Start with an hour or so on a warm day and increase the time outdoors until the nights are regularly in the 50 ° F range before leaving them for the season. Visit nurseries when they open to get inspiration as well as new plants. Buy and summer bulbs. Apply compost for lawns and beds. Check the soil for new beds. Re-inspect the soil in poorly productive areas or those that have not been tested in the last 3-5 years. Cut ornamental herbs. Divide when you see new green growth. Divide hosts and daylilies. Prune and divide perennials that bloom in late summer or fall. Prune and clean dead, diseased or unattractive stems from perennials and shrubs, but not those that bloom in the spring. Please check the correct pruning information for each plant and prune as needed and recommendations. Apply in spring and summer mulch two to three inches deep and place a few inches from foundations, tree trunks and other plants. Mulch and add more if necessary. Apply corn gluten-based weed control in the garden and set a re-application schedule, usually four to six weeks apart.

Lawn: Now is the time to tear off, sow or sow lawns. Apply control of deciduous weeds and complete turf projects. By mid-June: apply spring fertilizer. Regularly apply crab grass control before germination at intervals of four to six weeks. Fill the holes and low places on the lawn.

Housework: Water all recent plantings at any time when we are going through a week with less than an inch of rain. Repair damaged screens and garden hoses. Note the damaged sofa around the doors and windows. Discard stagnant water and remove anything that may collect rainwater to help control mosquito populations. Provide protection for deer, rabbits and marmots to vulnerable plants. Re-apply anti-taste or odor repellents. Clean and refill bird feeders regularly. Clean up spilled seeds and empty husks. Discard, clean and refill bird baths at least once a week. Consider placing nesting materials if you have them.

Clean gutters and direct rainwater from the foundations of the house.

Tools, equipment and materials: Store winter equipment and replace or repair as needed.

Check spring-summer equipment – repair or replace damaged or worn tools. Check power tools and mowers and service if necessary.

Security: Clean the lawn of debris before mowing and make sure pets, children and others are at a distance from the mowed area.

Store garden chemicals indoors, away from pets and children. Throw out the elderly at local chemical collection events. Photograph the damage from the storm before cleaning or repairing for insurance claims and apply immediately. Whenever you are outdoors and the temperature is around 50 ° F or warmer, watch out for tick bites. Use an insect repellent that contains Deet on the skin. Apply permethrin to clothing. Wear light-colored clothing, long sleeves, hats and long pants when working in the garden. Stay hydrated. Drink water or other decaffeinated soft drinks. Even in cold weather, apply sunscreen, wear hats and limit your exposure to the sun. Wear closed shoes and gloves; use eye protection; and use ear protection when using any loud power tools.